"While some attendees grumbled about boring
shows and uninspired
collections, a trove of unusually wearable clothes
were on display for fall 2012 at New York Fashion Week. Call it the Kate
Middleton effect, but no longer are designers catering to just their most
cutting-edge customers. Instead, anyone with a
cable knit or a closet
stocked with leather can join in.
Closely Knit:
Despite this year’s mild winter, designers didn’t shy away from featuring
snow-ready wares. Indeed, it was the humble cable knit sweater that provided the biggest
surprise during New York Fashion Week. Derek Lam
paired his with red carpet-worthy skirts, dressing up the traditionally dowdy
wardrobe staple, while Yigal
Azrouël’s exaggerated knit links and chains were
used to create discreet cut-outs (and, perhaps a bit of circulation should it
get too hot). At 3.1 Phillip
Lim, the sweater was worn upside down, and seemingly
inside-out, adding a post-modernist twist. But few designers paid homage to the
iconic pattern like Tommy
Hilfiger, who showed a trompe l’oeil cable knit dress.
Show Some Skin: PETA
was notably quiet this year, so attendees were left to wonder whether the
industry had finally phased out the use of animal skin. Gauging by the fall
collections, the answer remains “no.” In addition to plentiful fur and
shearling accents, leather was the focal point of many runway ensembles. At
Yigal Azrouël and Alexander
Wang, it was a head-to-toe affair, while at Proenza
Schouler it came in woven doses.
Some designers, including Peter Som
and Doo.Ri,
upgraded skinny leather leggings with looser, trouser-like
versions. Meanwhile, patent leather returned in a
big way, shimmering on the runways of Thakoon,
Derek Lam, Tory Burch,
and Diane von
Furstenberg.
Black and Blue All Over: While
the stand-out
color of the season was ox blood,
the hot new pairing is black and
blue. Some shows went with navy (as seen on the
blanket coats at Rag &
Bone), while others chose cobalt (including
high-sheen options at Prabal
Gurung), and a few (Band of
Outsiders, Bill Blass)
integrated bright and dark shades of azure. Black-and-blue looked just as good
on the knee-grazing wool jackets at Billy Reid
as they did on the sleek, body-con leather jackets and cut-out dresses at Kevork
Kiledjian. At Proenza Schouler the black and blue
movement converged with contrasting materials for a pleasing, and refreshingly
urbane, effect."
I just realised I´m wearing black and blue today. I´m soooo IN, lol.
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